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Positioning the quickdraw and clipping the rope

Clipping a carabiner or quickdraw is a basic technique associated with the progression of a climber. At first glance, nothing too complicated. In detail, though, there are many aspects to consider in order to move quickly and surely: in particular, placement of the quickdraw into the bolt in relation to the rope, and methods of clipping the rope. For example, when clipping a half rope in the middle of a crux with a small carabiner, good clipping skills are a must... Here are some tips for making life easier and climbing in peace.

Warnings

  • Read the technical notice before viewing the following techniques.
  • It is important to fully understand the information provided in the technical notice before using this complementary information
  • Mastering these techniques requires training.
  • Consult a professional before attempting to perform these techniques on your own.

Always use a quickdraw equipped with STRING type webbing protection. The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no STRING). The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with STRING). Warning: never install two STRINGs on one quickdraw. It would be too rigid: risk of poor positioning (e.g. cantilevered loading).

With small ANGE S carabiners, it is more effective to keep the fingers on the outside. Stabilize the quickdraw carabiner and put the rope through it.

With larger ANGE L (or SPIRIT) carabiners, you can put a finger in the carabiner to stabilize it. Then insert the rope.

The carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel. The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the outside. Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip, either due to rope movement or to the carabiner flipping on the bolt during a fall.

https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Positioning-the-quickdraw-and-clipping-the-rope?ActivityName=Rock-climbing
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